I am sure that nearly everyone who has used a screwdriver has, at one time or another, experienced the sinking feeling that occurs when the tool turns, but the screw in question does not. Phillips head screws seem to be the worst culprits.
One way to increase your odds of success (by as much as 30 percent) is to first dip the screwdriver tip in valve-grinding compound. The grit in the compound will help the screwdriver bite into the screw head, aiding immensely in the removal of a stubborn fastener. Most tool stores also sell screw removers.
Valve-grinding compound is readily available at most automotive-supply stores. A 11/2-ounce tube will likely cost you less than $1, and for this type of application, will probably last a lifetime.
A battery isolator is an electronic device that allows your motor home's alternator or converter to charge both the engine battery and the coach battery, but keeps the two systems separate or isolated so the coach batteries won't be drawn down while using the engine battery for starting the vehicle, and so that the engine battery won't be drawn down when using the coach's equipment (lights, ref, etc.).
Some motor homes have a switch, usually a push button on the dash, that will bypass the isolator, which allows the coach battery to temporarily be used to start the vehicle.
From time to time the black water holding tank gauge lights on my RV monitor
panel stop reading properly. When this happens it is almost always caused by
contaminated contacts inside the tank.
Usually an extra good tank rinsing with the toilet wand is all that's needed. If that doesn't work I wash the tank by filling it with hot water and liquid laundry detergent and letting it stay for about and hour and then rinsing with the toilet want.
After dumping and rinsing the tank I fill it 1/3 full and add laundry detergent. The agitation while driving usually does the job. About half the amount of liquid detergent called for in a normal washing machine load is enough.
If it is cold or at least cool outside, bag or two of cracked ice dumped in the tank through the toilet just before hitting the road will scour the inside of the tank while you drive. This doesn't work as well in the summer time since the ice melts too fast to have enough time to scower the tank.
Again, after dumping and rinsing the tank, I use a little more detergent and completely fill the tank using the toilet wand. Using the wand helps dilute the detergent and also creates some suds. Let the tank stand full and soak for at least an hour.
Then drain the tank and rinse with the wand. Let the tank stand empty for a while to allow the contacts to dry and then check the gauge. If the system monitor still doesn't read right it's probably time to call a service technician.
Except for using the wand and ice, you can use the same procedures to clean the gray water tank.
Some RVers are confused about how to read the holding tank levels because the black water and gray water tanks have red lights at the top of the scale while the fresh water tank has the green light at the top.
It's easy to understand if you think about the ideal condition of each tank. For example the ideal condition of the fresh water tank is full.
The ideal condition for the black and gray tanks is empty. (When either tank gets full you better be looking for a dump station!)
Now think of GREEN lights as being good and RED lights as bad. If you have a full fresh water tank that's good so you have a green light. If you have a full black water tank that's bad so you have a red light! Amber means caution you're about to have a bad condition.
Same goes for propane tanks. A full tank is good so it's a green light.
One last thing, I'm not sure all monitor panels work the same but when I'm hooked up to shore-power the battery level indicator reads the voltage from the power converter/ battery charger. I learned this the hard way after a long stay when I disconnect from 120v power to find my battery dead!
To get a true reading of my battery condition the converter may have to be turned off. You may want to check how yours works
Driving your motor home, fifth wheel or travel trailer with the RV refrigerator on while traveling is definitely okay as long as you operate on 120 volt AC or 12 volts DC assuming your unit has the capability to do so. To operate on 120 volts you will need a generator or inverter. RVers with motor homes frequently run their generators so that they can use their RV's air conditioner, TVs, Microwaves etc. They can also operate the refrigerator.
To operate on 12 volts DC, check with your RV mechanic to make sure your alternator and batteries will handle the extra load.
Remember, when you park the rig for more than a few minutes the rig must be level or the refer must be turned off to avoid damage to the refrigerator.
There is an ongoing debate about whether or not to travel with the refrigerator operating on propane.
After hearing both sides of the debate, I can tell you that there is no real consensus and both sides are adamant in their beliefs. As far as I can tell there is no right or wrong answer, it's up to you to decide. Here are the arguments
Many RVers can see no danger in running the refrigerator on propane while on the road. They say they have traveled for years with no problems whatsoever. They point to the safety of propane powered vehicles and argue that we travel with tanks full of gasoline which is much more dangerous. Generally it is legal to travel while using propane, but keep in mind that it is illegal to have any open flames while near a service station fuel pump. And some tunnels and bridges may have restrictions too.
Other RVer's, claim that traveling with the propane on is a disaster waiting to happen. They argue that in an accident a broken propane line could increase the possibility of fire, even an explosion. For them the only safe way to travel is with the propane tank valves closed!.
You may not have to travel with your refrigerator on at all.
If you travel less than four to five hours a day you can turn your refrigerator off and it will still stay cold enough to keep your food fresh. You can even open the door to get lunch or a cold drink if you don't open it too many times.
If you decide to travel with the refrigerator off here are some tips for keeping things cold.
RV refrigerators don't work the same way your home unit does. Your RV unit uses heat to start a chemical reaction which, through evaporation and then condensation, cools the cold box. The primary heat source for RV refrigerators is a small propane burner. Many units include a 120 volt AC electric heating element for use when the RV is hooked up to curbside shore power. When you are not hooked up, obviously you will need to operate on propane. In camp, with shore power, it's a matter of choice as to which you use; propane or 120 volt. You may prefer electricity simply because it increases the time between propane fill-ups. But a refrigerator uses very little propane compared to a water heater or furnace.
Some refrigerators installed in motor homes also have a 12 volt DC heating element. These are often referred to as three-way refrigerators... propane, 120 vac and 12 VDC. The 12vDC heating element draws several amps and can discharge a battery in a short time. Therefore three-way refrigerators are usually found in motor homes and are intended to allow the unit to be operated while traveling. Remember, when the engine is not running the battery is not being charged by the alternator. Also, make sure the alternator in your vehicle is large enough to power all the lights, charge the batteries and operate the refrigerator.
It is important to keep an RV refrigerator level during operation to avoid irreparable damage. This is especially important in older units... pre 1986 or so. For newer refrigerators it's only necessary to keep it reasonably level... if your motor home, travel trailer or fifth wheel is comfortable then the refrigerator is likely level enough. Before you use your refrigerator for the first time place a small bubble level on a refrigerator shelf. Adjust the level of your RV until the refrigerator is level. Then find a countertop or some other place on the RV that also reads level. This will be your reference from now on. If you keep the level in the frig and you open the door several times to check for level the refrigerator can take an hour or more to recover.
Here's some tips for getting the most from your RV refrigerator.
Pre-cool the refrigerator for several hours before use.
Put only cold things in the refrigerator... buy cold sodas and beer or pre-cool them in your home refrigerator.
Keep the refrigerator well stocked with items that hold the cold well. Things like cans of soda, beer and bottles of water etc. will give up some of their cold to the air in the refrigerator and help keep other things cold until the refrigerator can recover.
Park your RV where the refrigerator side is in the shade
Plan ahead. Know what you will need from the refrigerator before you open the door. Get everything at the same time and put it all back at the same time.
Make sure the thermocouple is positioned properly in the pilot flame.
Another common problem is a bad regulator at the propane tank. A simple test will indicate if this is the case. Light all the stove burners and look at the color of the flame. The flames should be blue with little or no yellow color. If the flame does not change color then the regulator is probably working. A bad regulator could also cause problems with your hot water heater.
If the fan will not start you should first check that your battery is good and you have 12 volts at the furnace. You could have a tripped circuit breaker or blown fuse.
If the battery is good and you have electricity to the RV's heater next check the thermostat.
Remove cover and look for the "anticipator" adjustment. (Note: Some new thermostats do not have an anticipator.) It will be an adjustable control with a sliding contact over a straight bare wire or a bare wire wound about an insulating material. If the fan will not start set the temperature to maximum and then move the anticipator slider while listening for the fan to start. Be sure to wait long enough... it normally takes our furnace 30 seconds for the fan to start once the thermostat sends a signal.
If the fan starts after you move the slider then you have probably found the problem. In this case you may find a slider position near the original position that will work reliably. If your thermostat anticipator adjustment uses the straight wire design and the wire lies directly on the plastic housing then you should look to see if the wire has sunk into the plastic. This wire produces heat and causes the plastic to melt a little and the wire to sink into the plastic so the slider no longer makes contact. It may be necessary to replace the thermostat.
If your furnace fan starts you can assume that the thermostat is working.
Possible problems are insufficient air flow through the furnace a bad propane valve at the furnace or a bad regulator at the propane tank.
A furnace contains an internal sail switch, that senses the air flow. If the air flow is not sufficient then the switch will prevent the furnace from igniting and the fan will run but you will get no heat. A slow motor speed could be caused by a low battery or other low voltage cause such as a bad connection in the wiring.
Low air flow could also be caused by a restriction in the ventilation system. Check to see if any heat registers are closed or blocked. Some furnaces will not tolerate even a partial closure of a heat register. .
If you have an electronic ignition check to see if the two contacts are touching or are too far apart. They should be about 1/8 apart.
The term "dry rot" is actually a misnomer because the decay is caused by certain fungi capable of carrying water into the wood they infest. The water can be transported far away from the source and the wood will often feel dry to the touch thus the term dry rot.
Gradually, the wood decomposes and its strength is lost. Such damage is often inconspicuous until it's final stages, working behind the paneling on the structural framing of the RV.
Dry rot in an RV can be caused by an undiscovered plumbing leak but is usually caused by a leak in the outer skin which lets rain water in.
Almost everyone is good about re-caulking the roof seams but that's only part of prevention. Cracks can develop in the rim of plastic roof vents well above the seam. Think about replacing plastic vents with metal ones.
Marker lights are often the source of a leak. Make sure you at least check them each time your reseal the roof. And be sure you replace any broken or missing lenses.
Windows are a major source of water leaks. Especially the front overhang window on class Cs. Partly because they get the full force of rain while driving but mostly because they are too hard for most people to inspect. Or too easy to neglect. Those of us with RVs over ten years old need to have all the windows removed and resealed.
On the outside, look for irregularities around window and door frames. If you have screws that won't stay tight you may have a problem. If the screws are rusted or corroded you DO have a problem and it's a good indication of dry rot.
A day or two after you've washed your RV or after a rain storm check along the bottom edges. If it is still wet you probably have a leak. Check it out.
On the inside, look for water marks on the ceiling especially around roof vents. Remove the vent flanges and air conditioner shrouds and look for discoloration in the wood. That's a sure sign of a leak and possible dry rot.
And, of course, check around the windows. Look for discoloration, softness of the paneling and loose screws.
Repairing the leak is only part of the repair. You must make sure the wood is dry. If there is any sign of dry rot treat the wood with an antifungal solution. Regular household bleach works for him but there are commercial formulas of disodium octaborate tetrahydrate or sodium borate with brand names of Bora-CareŽ, GuardianŽ, JectaŽ, Shell-GuardŽ, Tim-borŽ.
If the wood has decomposed enough that the screws won't hold, don't just put in longer screws! Git Rot, an epoxy like product, can rebuild dry rotted wood, but if you wait until the long screws won't hold there may not be enough wood left to rebuild.
No doubt dry rot is responsible for the early death of many Motor homes, Fifth Wheels and Travel Trailers simply because it isn't spotted and repaired before it gets out of hand.
Some roof top recreational vehicle air conditioners, for example Coleman brand RV air conditioners have a heating element or 'heat strip' installed which is intended to be used as a supplement to the RV furnace. If you don't have one installed it's likely an option. The heating element is the equivalent in capacity to a small portable electric heater... about 1500 watts.
It's generally used on to take the chill off the air rather the heat the RV. But you can use it when your furnace isn't working to get you through a cold night. You may not be toasty warm but you wont freeze either.
If you don't have one should you get one? Depends of course.
Some Rvers believe it is a good thing to have an air conditioner heating element and it is worth the money. Others, of course, don't.
The difference of opinion, I believe, comes as a result of a perception. The fan in an RV air conditioner moves a lot of air and a small 1500 watt heating element just doesn't have the capacity to heat all that air to the point that it feels hot. That leads many people to think that it is not working properly or at least not well enough to be of value. These folks argue in favor of the portable heater... they can feel the heat from it!
But 1500 watts is 1500 watts. You can feel the heat from a portable heater because it doesn't move the air as fast so it has more time to get hot.
The advantages of the heat strip in the RV air conditioner are that it will probably be more reliable and it doesn't take up any more space in the RV. The disadvantage is the noise... listening to the AC fan for a long period of time gets tiresome... to me anyway.
The advantage to the portable heater is that it is portable. On a really cold night when your furnace isn't working you could close off the rest of the RV and keep your bedroom fairly warm. And it's a lot quieter than the AC.
Disadvantages are unreliability and It takes up space using it and storing it. Although small, there is a risk if accidental fire or electrocution.
Have you ever been in an RV park site where the 30-amp outlet was broken or the circuit breaker was weak and kept tripping? If it happens again and the RV power pedestal has a 50-amp outlet you can use it instead of the 30-amp outlet. All you need is the right adapter.
There are a couple of types but the most common power adapter is often called a dog bone because of how it looks. Below is an explanation of why this works.
An RV power pedestal 30 amp outlet has a single 120 leg and breaker rated at 30 amps at 120 volts along with a neutral leg and ground.
An RV power pedestal 50 amp outlet has two 120 volt legs that supply current to the RV plus a neutral and ground. Each power leg can supply 120 volts to neutral or the two can supply 240 volts from Leg 1 to Leg 2. The outlet is protected by a double breaker rated at 50 amps on each leg. What that means is there are TWO 50 amp breakers, usually physically connected together, supplying the RV with current. (If you flip the breaker off, both are flipped at the same time)
In an RV wired for 30 amp service all outlets and appliances are connected to the single 30 amp leg. In an RV wired for 50 amp service some outlets and appliances are connected to one leg while other outlets and appliances are connected to the other leg. Manufacturers try to anticipate the power requirements and balance which outlets and appliances are connected to which leg. For example, all the kitchen outlets and appliances might be connected to leg one and the rest would be connected to leg two. RVs with two air conditioners would have one connected to each 120 volt leg.
When you plug your 30 amp adapter into the 50 amp outlet the adapter taps only one leg and transfers the power to the 30-amp outlet on the other end. Yes you technically have up to 50 amps available at the adapter but the 30 amp circuit breakers in your RV's power panel will only allow you to draw 30 amps. As far as your RV is concerned nothing is different.
The electrical system in recreational vehicles is really two electrical systems: 120 volt alternating current and 12 volt direct current.
The 120 volt system is generally used to run the microwave oven, TV and RV air conditioner. Some lighting may also be 120 volts. To use the 120 volt appliances in your RV you'll need an external power source (campground or home outlet) a RV generator or inverter.
The power for the 12 vdc system is supplied by an onboard RV battery or batteries. The RV's 12 v system provides power for most of the lights, the water pump, furnace, radios, vent fans, power jacks and stabilizers, and sometimes the refrigerator. The 12 v system is a big part of what makes your RV 'self-contained'.
Your RV will most likely have a combination converter/ battery charger.
When hooked-up to outside 120 volt power a converter changes or converts 120 volts AC to 12 volts DC to operate the 12 volt system. It also charges the 12v RV battery or batteries which operate the 12 volt system when not on external power.
Generally you should not operate the converter without batteries connected because the RV batteries act as a filter of sorts and provides a more stable voltage to the electronic circuits of modern RV appliances.